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Almost no effort at all in comparison to trying to turn the stock cam in the stock bearings. The cyl walls still had cross hatch patterns with no obvious wear. -Ram Air heads and cam -3.42 posi -TH 400 [email protected] The second cam died much quicker and I used Rhoads lifters that actually bleed off to help vacuum with larger cams (which both I have installed are within the accepted spectrum of the stock replacement springs. To clarify, Ram Ari III #48 heads and summit blueprint HO, RA III, or 068 cam. I usually shift around 5200 but it pulls to 6K rpm hard not dropping off if you aren't watching the tach.

Oil "oozing" out of the rockers while running is correct.

Oil "squirting" indicates either worn rockers or worn pushrods or both. We see it with 455s more than others, due to the excessive stroke and high stress at lower speeds (tremendous low-end torque, "flimsy" block).

The lifter bores need to be cleaned of all varnish, this can take a shotgun brass bristle brush w/acetone as a solvent.

Usually honing is not needed, and if the bores measure good, don't hone anyway. If you are using the bottle neck studs and nuts torqued to 20 ft/lbs, this is especially important because if the p-rod length isn't correct you can't adjust the preload unless you have straight studs and polylocs or adjustable nuts on the bottle neck studs (something I personally never recommend).

Break-in: -Cam has all of the lube they gave me in the kit on cam and lifter bottoms.

-As soon as it fired I made sure it stayed around 2k rpm... I am used to oil squirting all the way to the wheel wells from the rocker with valve covers off and that's at idle not 2K rpm.

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I have a 1971 Pontiac 400 which I have replaced the cam and bearings in twice now.

I'm about rob some bearings out of another engine I have sitting around. That said, if there is a problem w/the journal to bearing oil clearance, or the cam bearings are installed incorrectly, or the bearings themselves are incorrect, or the cam tunnel diameter is out of spec, or the tunnel not straight there can be problems. If so, do you have the correct tool that locates off the tunnel so the bearings are started straight? Needing honing is certainly not unheard of, some blocks supposedly had the bearings honed to fit the cam, so installing replacement bearings could result in an out of spec tunnel.

To start with, I'd recommend you measure the cam, bearings and cam tunnel of the block to see exactly what you have going on.

I have never heard of such a thing and have read everything Pontiac related that I could in the last 20 years. One other thing I notice about the engine is when I replaced the timing chain (which is the only part of the engine that I could tell had been apart before I took it apart) the new one was just as sloppy as the old one.